portable circular saw conciderations

[Sam]

I have cottage with limited accesibility (with out road). I would cut my own bars and timber.
I already have chaing saw for logitudal cutting and slicing logs. that works out.
However, i would like cut slices into 100mm*100mm bars. I was considering portable circular saw for this purpose, since Even the slices are fairly heavy.
But it looks like with this cutting depth kick back or kick forward it going to serious issues, even if I have enough power. What options I have have minimizing risk of kick back ? obviously guide rails is something I can screw into slices, but besides that, I was thinking of blades size - should I use 315mm blade or 400 mm blade? Should get cheap speed adjuster for the saw (Universal motor) to redure rpms? are antikick back blades any good ? Anything else to to consider, if I take this bold approach ?

O

 

[SawDustInMyBeer]

To keep things safe and prevent kickback, use a sharp blade that's not too thick, and make sure your riving knife is set up correctly. Also, clamp down whatever you're cutting so it doesn't move around, and feed it into the blade at a nice, even pace

 

[lgf3rr]

I have cottage with limited accesibility (with out road). I would cut my own bars and timber.
I already have chaing saw for logitudal cutting and slicing logs. that works out.
However, i would like cut slices into 100mm*100mm bars. I was considering portable circular saw for this purpose, since Even the slices are fairly heavy.
But it looks like with this cutting depth kick back or kick forward it going to serious issues, even if I have enough power. What options I have have minimizing risk of kick back ? obviously guide rails is something I can screw into slices, but besides that, I was thinking of blades size - should I use 315mm blade or 400 mm blade? Should get cheap speed adjuster for the saw (Universal motor) to redure rpms? are antikick back blades any good ? Anything else to to consider, if I take this bold approach ?

O

A 315mm blade should be fine for 100mm stock. A larger 400mm blade gives more clearance but it gets heavier and increases the potential for kickback. Anti-kickback blades can help, but a simple guide rail is your best defense. As for speed, trying to reduce RPMs on a universal motor is a double-edged sword. Too slow and the blade will bind and overheat, which is a major kickback risk. You're better off using a saw that's designed for the task and making multiple shallow passes instead of one deep cut.

 

[CabinCuts_21]

Another thing to keep in mind is fatigue. Cutting 100mm stock repeatedly with a hand-held circular saw will be exhausting. Have you thought about a small portable bandsaw mill instead? It might be safer and more efficient long-term.

 

[granddaddilly]

Have you thought about a proper track/guide system, using the largest blade your saw can handle, and going slow and also the portable bandsaw @CabinCuts_21 talked about, you should consider that

 

[Kyeeel_]

I have cottage with limited accesibility (with out road). I would cut my own bars and timber.
I already have chaing saw for logitudal cutting and slicing logs. that works out.
However, i would like cut slices into 100mm*100mm bars. I was considering portable circular saw for this purpose, since Even the slices are fairly heavy.
But it looks like with this cutting depth kick back or kick forward it going to serious issues, even if I have enough power. What options I have have minimizing risk of kick back ? obviously guide rails is something I can screw into slices, but besides that, I was thinking of blades size - should I use 315mm blade or 400 mm blade? Should get cheap speed adjuster for the saw (Universal motor) to redure rpms? are antikick back blades any good ? Anything else to to consider, if I take this bold approach ?

O

If you're cutting often, think about getting a beam saw or portable band saw. They're made for deeper cuts and give you way more control.

 

[goodm0ndays]

A 315mm blade should be fine for 100mm stock. A larger 400mm blade gives more clearance but it gets heavier and increases the potential for kickback. Anti-kickback blades can help, but a simple guide rail is your best defense. As for speed, trying to reduce RPMs on a universal motor is a double-edged sword. Too slow and the blade will bind and overheat, which is a major kickback risk. You're better off using a saw that's designed for the task and making multiple shallow passes instead of one deep cut.

Appreciate the advice! I'm just getting into logging and helping my cousin mill some small hardwood logs in his backyard. We're using a basic table saw with a 315mm blade, but I wasn't sure if that was enough. For multiple shallow passes, how deep is safe per pass for 100mm stock?